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“包是随身携带的容器,每个人对它都有不同的追求,功能的需要,外观的喜好,或是对品牌的追随。作为一个‘身外之物’,包和我们的关系这么近却又独立存在着。对于我来说,它是我表达生活态度和美学认知的语言。”

独立包袋设计师赵欣(大家都亲切的叫她Xinxin)在她的上海工作室与我聊到一些她对创作的思考。

“A bag is a portable container, everyone has different taste or demand, or simply a brand preference. You have a special relationship with your bag, it is part of your personality but still exist independently. For me, it is the language in which I express my attitudes and aesthetics. “

Xin Zhao, an independent bag designer in Shanghai (people also call her “Xinxin“), shared some of her thinking with me in her studio.

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缘分天注定,我和Xinxin本是在新西兰的大学同年级同专业的同学,当年擦肩而过没有相识,而兜兜转转机缘巧合在上海遇见相认。如今她已从平面设计投身到包袋设计,经过了三年多的努力,在上海已经立足的脚跟做着自己喜欢的事业。

Xinxin and I went to the same university and studied Graphic Design in the same year in New Zealand, however we only got to know each other after we both returned to Shanghai. Now she is designing bags and running her own brand in Shanghai. After 3 years of hard work, she has found her feet in the area that she loves building upon.

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我曾好奇的问Xinxin是因何把事业转向时尚饰品设计的,她回答道,她是做产品的,并不想把自己归类到fashion design。在中国,服装行业已经发展得相当成熟,而饰品包袋类却没有太多能让人耳熟能详的中国品牌,消费者手里基本都是持有国外大牌的包包。Xinxin认为这是一个很好的机会点,从包袋设计着手来作为目前自己创作的媒介,顺势而为,或许以后有机会可以设计延伸到别类的产品。

I was curious what made Xinxin change her career direction into fashion, but she replied she is actually making a product and does not want to label herself with “fashion”. In China, the fashion accessory industry is developing fast but is not that mature as the apparel industry yet. Handbags out there on the streets mostly belong to the western big brands. Xinxin thinks it is a good starting point to design bags and use it as a medium to make her voice. Perhaps later she will get her hands on other categories and extend her product portfolio.

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(上图为Xinxin的复古材质创新系列。)
(Above is Xinxin’s ‘vintage reconstruct’ collection.)

刚开始,Xinxin的设计使用了大量复古包的材质进行重新利用,但不久后她发现这样对自己的创作有所限制。于是她重新定位了自己的品牌并改名为“Re by XinZhao”,决定将更多的个人情感意识融入到创作中,而不是追寻时尚的潮流,并将自己热爱的艺术表达与包袋使用功能更好的结合在一起。

At first, Xinxin reused a lot of vintage bag materials she collected, but soon she felt it constrained her design. Thus, she redefined her brand and renamed it “Re by XinZhao“. She gets inspiration from her personal awareness instead of following fashion trends, mixing art with functionality.

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在材质的使用上,相比真皮,Xinxin更推崇使用新材料。对于一个独立包袋设计师来说,采用真皮就意味着设计与生产都将受限。随着科技的发展,新型材料在不断的被开发,许多皮质代替品的透气性和柔韧性都不亚于真皮,颜色和触感的选择空间也很丰富,像Xinxin这样的独立设计师才能有更好的机会来做自己的创作,更好的来为艺术表达而服务。

In the choice of materials, Xinxin prefers new materials instead of leather. For an independent bag designer, using leather would cause limitation on the design and production. Thanks to technology, there are lots of new materials developed and improved every year to replace leather, so Xinxin has the chance to produce her design.

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Q1: 儿时的梦想是什么?目前的梦想呢?
X: 儿时的梦想好多好多,一直在变,接触到什么觉得很酷的,就想成为那样的人。比如当军人,像我父母那样;比如小学的时候去外国语学院上英语班,就有成为外企白领的即视感。中学开始听摇滚,当rock star也不错。始终贯穿我的成长过程的一个梦想,大概就是当个艺术家,从小接触书法绘画开始,以至于后来一直就读美术院校。
目前的梦想么,还是当“艺术家”。但这个词对我来说并不是一个狭隘的称谓。而是始终自由地处于可以通过创作表达自我的状态,和能养活自己的生活方式。

Q1: What was your childhood dream? What about now?
X: I have lots of childhood dreams and they changed constantly. I just wanted to be something cool at the time, for example to become a soldier like my parents, or a white-collar worker who speaks good English, even as cool as a rock star… Overall, probably I just wanted to become an artist. I started learning Chinese calligraphy and painting since a very young age, and later went to study in art schools.
My current dream is still to be an “artist”, so to speak, which is not just a title in a narrow sense, but a state of being free to create and self-express, in a lifestyle that I can support myself.

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Q2: 平面设计师出身的你,是如何踏上做包袋设计的道路的?当初在做这个决定的时候内心是否有过疑虑或挣扎?
X: 纯属意外,平面设计师转行做什么都可以呀,因为能出图嘛。有概念是第一步,主要是自己一直动手能力比较强吧,对制作对工艺很有兴趣。比如做平面设计的时候也特别愿意去印刷厂去纸厂了解生产工艺那样,对实体的呈现一直有向往。留学时候开始就爱上收集vintage包,后来就决定自己做了。做创业的决定时没有挣扎,那时候年纪尚小,不知道自己干就是创业了,一路都做得很开心,每个小阶段都有成就感有回报。回头看,觉得都挺自然而然的。

Q2: What made you want to shift your career from graphic design to bag design?  Did you ever have any struggles or doubts?
X: It just happened. A graphic designer can do anything, because they can create images. Having a concept is the first step, and I am also very hands-on, interested in all the making part. While doing graphic design, I was quite fond of going to the printing and paper factories to understand the production process. When I was studying abroad, I fell in love with collecting vintage bags, then later I decided to make bags myself. I didn’t realise I was starting up a business since I was still relatively young, and I didn’t had any doubts or anything. I have a lot of fun along the way, each small step comes with a sense of accomplishment in return. Now looking back, everything just came naturally.

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Q3: 你觉得从平面设计转行到包袋设计最困难的地方是哪里,最有趣的地方在哪里?
X: 最困难的就是摆脱二维思维的扁平化,只追求平面视觉效果却不懂得如何在三维空间里呈现出实用的产品。对功能性使用感方面的表现,初期一直不太理想。还有就是摆脱传统和商业包袋造型设计的约束,做到从造型及概念上的原创性。毕竟包袋形式可以承载的语言有限,想通过一款表达太多是不实际的。整个设计开发过程中,最困难的就在于此。
最有趣和兴奋的环节就是看师傅实际操作制作样包,和我一起反复琢磨工艺做法是我们两个都觉很乐趣的事。

Q3: What is the most difficult part in changing your career from graphic design to bag design? Is there any fun story you can share?
X: The most difficult part is to get rid of the two dimension way of thinking, and make it real in the three dimensional world. The functional performance was not ideal at the start. Another difficulty is about thinking out of box and being original on the designs, e.g. silhouette, construction and concepts, and do not get constrained by the traditional and commercial bag design on the market. After all, the bag itself cannot carry out too much form of language, it is difficult if you want to express too much.
The most interesting and exciting part is watching the bag maker making the sample bag. It is super fun when we are discussing the process and methods.

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(图中的“马列维奇”系列,Xinxin将较硬的材质制成了一个贴合人体曲线的形状,让其更加柔软的接触着使用者的身体,也被大家美其名曰为“翘臀包”。)

(Those are the “Malevich” collection – A hard surfaced material in a curvy shape that fits the human body form.  )

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Q4: 我觉得你的上一批设计“马列维奇”系列更多的是从别的平面艺术家作品中吸取灵感,把平面演变成了立体的形式,而近期的“Knot Sure”则是表达了更多自己的情感到作品里。你自己是怎么看的,可以说说你自己的creative process吗?
X: 就像我之前说的关于我的梦想,是能够始终通过创作自由地表达自我,而包袋是刚巧在这个阶段实现这个想法地一个媒介。生活给我什么,我就想表达什么。“马列维奇”系列是我作为一个设计师,向喜爱的艺术家致敬的作品。而“Knot Sure”的开发过程是伴随着当时生活中的一道坎。当时状态不好,但感触又特别多。是默默地化作心里的结还是通过作品说出来,我选择后者。这种感受到什么就通过包袋设计表达一下的创作方式,我会一直做下去。

Q4: In my interpretation, your previous collection “Malevich” is more about getting inspiration from a famous artist, transforming 2D into 3D. But your last collection “Knot Sure” is showing more of your own emotions. How do you think of them yourself? Could you please share some of the creative process?
X: Like I said before, my dreams are all about being able to express myself freely through creating, and the ‘bag’ just happened to be the medium for me to work on at this stage. What life gives me, I express. “Malevich” is a collection that I created to pay tribute to my favourite artist. I was undergoing some issues in the process creating the “Knot Sure” collection, I was in a bad shape. Let it become a knot in my heart, or make something out of it, I choose the latter. Do what I feel, create what I want, I will keep it this way for my bag design.

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(图为”Knot Sure” 系列。)

(Above is the “Knot Sure” collection.)

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Q5: 包袋设计作为一个经久不衰的行业,是否有什么固定的流程或规则(比如,时尚趋势,经典的版型等等)?你作为一个新进入此行业的设计师,是否需要特别遵守什么规则?亦或者,你觉得你自己是个来“打破规则”的设计师?
X: 品牌价值,产品故事,时尚趋势,就是时尚品牌经久不衰的重要要素,不仅仅是包袋。我从来没想过我能通过与众不同的设计和产品打破什么规则。如果说我觉得自己最大的不同,就是我从没把自己定位成某一个身份,或是身处哪一个“行业”。我没有太遵守规则就是了,我想是这一点我让有那么一点不太一样吧。

Q5: Bag design is an enduring and also fast-growing industry, is there any particular rules and procedures you have to follow as a new comer (eg, fashion trends, the standard shapes) ? Or, do you feel yourself more of a “rule breaker” type? 
X: Brand value, product stories, fashion trends, are the important components of the enduring fashion brands, not only for a bag. I never thought I can break any rules through any special design or product. I guess I haven’t really put myself in a fixed position, or framed myself in a certain industry. I didn’t really follow any particular rules. Perhaps this is something that makes me slightly different.

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Q6: 可以说说你通常的一天是如何度过的?工作时间是如何分配的,设计占据了整个工作的多少百分比?
X: 尽量早起,但还没养成早睡的习惯。行政文案类工作,以及收集资料采购都在白天,穿插进行。我的思维和行事方式都太跳跃,的确影响效率,但我也不打算刻意改变。时间不紧急的情况下,随着自己的个性工作会少很多压力,有些压力是没必要存在的。毛病改不了,还是喜欢晚上设计。没有时间概念。

Q6: How do you normally spend your day? How do you schedule your working hours?
X: I try my best to get up early but it still hasn’t become my routine yet. Adminstration, research and material purchase I usually get done in the day time and I like to design at night. My mind jumps here and there, it does effect my efficiency, but I am not intent to change anything. I allow myself to work in my own flow while there is no immediate deadline. There is no need to give myself too much pressure when unnecessary.

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Q7:可以透露一下你的新系列的concept吗?
X: 独立,多变,利落。画面感强 。

Q7: Can you reveal a little about your new collection? 
X: It’s independent, flexible and neat with strong visual impact.

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Q8: 作为一个独立设计师,有什么你现在了解到的地方是你希望当初就能够知道的?
X: 哈哈哈
 没有,我感谢当初我什么都不知道!

Q8: As an independent designer, is there anything you know now you wish you had known when you started?
X: Hahaha, nothing, thank god that I didn’t know anything before!

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(Xinxin的工作室是和卧室连一起的,艺术与生活也连一起。)

(Xinxin’s work studio is connected with her personal living space. )

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Xinxin想要打破平面设计师的一些思维局限,希望从不同的维度来对产品的设计加分。但要把消费者的喜好与自己的艺术概念更好的结合在一起,这其中的平衡点也是十分的微妙。

经过了一段时间的沉淀,Xinxin的设计随着自己的历练变得更加柔软与放松,并尝试着不同的方式使作品变得更加自由。我想这是因为,是她的内心已变得更加自由。

Xinxin is trying her best to innovate in the bag design language. But the art of balancing between the consumer’s taste and personal expression is a constant challenge.

After a period of growth, Xinxin’s design is getting more flexible and relaxed. I think it is because she has found more freedom in her heart.


喜欢Xinxin的包包?那可以去下面的店铺转转

Do you like Xinxin’s bag? This is where you can find

以下实体店有较全面的产品呈现:

Offline shops where you can try them on:

1.  XINLELU.COM Boutique
上海市静安区陕西北路414号靠近北京西路

414 Shanxi Rd Nth, JingAn, Shanghai (Next to Beijing Rd Wst)

2.  Yours, Life Store

上海市静安区巨鹿路804号,靠近富民路

804 Julu Rd, JingAn, Shanghai (Next to Fumin Rd)

线上直购通道:

Onlinedirect buying:

1.  Xinxin自营微店 | Xinxin’s own WeiDian Store:

REBYXINZHAO

2.  礼物定制平台BeGifted微店 | BeGifted WeiDian Store:

BeGifted 赋礼尤物

http://youwu.jiemian.com

yingting

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